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This technique eliminates the bulk from the center front seams and automatically places the under collar on the bias to give the collar greater shape.
- Create a new collar pattern.
- Cut the pattern apart at the center back.
- Fold under the seam allowance of the center front of one collar, and align it with the stitching line of the other collar center front. Pin. Trim the extra triangle shape that forms when you overlap the collar sections.
- Place Pattern Paper or wax paper over the new collar outline. Add a 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance to one end of the new pattern. Write “place on fold” at the other end, and cut out the new pattern piece.
- Position the new pattern on the fabric fold and cut out the collar.
- Using the new pattern, cut out the interfacing and fuse it to the wrong side of the collar.
Note From Nancy
If you’re working with a striped fabric, refold the fabric so that its grain runs horizontally on the upper collar. If you’re sewing with a plain fabric, grain placement is less critical. I’ve made collars using either grain line, and both placements work fine.
- Sew the center back seam and press.
- Sew the outer edge.
- Refold the collar, with right sides together and the seam placed at the center back.
- Stitch the outer edge.
- Press the seam flat and then open. Grade the seam allowances, trimming the under collar seam to 1/4" (6 mm). Trim the collar points on the diagonal to eliminate bulk.
- Understitch using a multi-zigzag stitch, sewing all the seam allowances to the under collar to within 1" (2.5 cm) of the collar points.
- If your machine doesn’t have this stitch, use a regular zigzag.
- Using a Collar Point & Tube Turner, turn the collar right side out and press.
Note From Nancy
You can instantly turn collar and lapel points with a Collar Point and Tube Turner. Place the collar between the scissorlike prongs, with the rounded point of the turner on the inside of the collar, and turn the collar right side out. The pointed end helps form the point of the collar.
For more sewing techniques check out the following:
• Essential Sewing Guide by Nancy Zieman
• Sewing Express Video and Book by Nancy Zieman
© 1999, Nancy’s Notions®
For personal use only.